Teotitlán del Valle is a colorful Zapotec village rich in culture and tradition near Oaxaca, Mexico. This amazing village is known for its local artisans who create intricately designed and handcrafted rugs, purses, wall hangings and other woven crafts.
Turning off the main highway onto Av Juárez; the main road leading into the village, visitors are immediately greeted by a colorful oasis of rugs at the Mercado de Artesanías. Intense red, turquoise blue and bright marigold yellow rugs in contemporary and Zapotec designs hang from their wooden stalls greeting every visitor to Teotitlán del Valle. Further down Av Juárez, visitors will find a cache of shops and homes displaying a magnificent array of these beautiful rugs.
Tips for Purchasing Rugs in Teotitlán del Valle
The craft of weaving pre-dates the arrival of the Spanish in Mexico. In pre-Hispanic times Zapotec weavers traditionally used a back strap loom and cotton as opposed to wool to produce clothing and other items. Currently, weaving is done on a faster and more efficient upright wooden loom introduced by the Spanish in the 1500’s. Also introduced was the use of wool which is more durable but not native to Mexico.
It will become immediately apparent when shopping for rugs that prices can vary greatly. A number of factors can directly affect the cost of an item. A factor that sets these rugs apart from other woven items produced in other areas is the use of natural dyes. Weavers utilize many natural locally produced items such as indigo, marigold petals, pomegranate, nut shells and moss to create a variety of natural but rich colors. An intense rare red dye is collected from the Cochineal insect that lives on the prickly pear cactus; it is then used to create a variety of reds ranging from orange to purple. Typically items produced with natural dyes are more expensive due to the length of time and skill required in the dying process.
One of the best ways to learn about the quality of rugs before purchase is to ask questions. Consumers should ask the weaver specifically what type of dye was used to produce the items before purchasing. Be aware that some weavers use synthetic dyes and materials which cuts down on cost and time significantly. Another factor effecting the cost and quality of woven items is the type of wool used. Ask the vendor if the wool is hand-spun or factory produced?
Shoppers should pay attention to the intricacy and size of the rug as well when determining its value. The rugs in Teotitlán del Valle come in a variety of designs including many contemporary styles, traditional Zapotec patterns, and Navajo style-designs. Large rugs with intricate details require great skill and time to produce, sometimes even months. The best advice when purchasing a rug is to ask questions, visit the weaver’s workshop and compare prices and products before purchasing anything.
Because prices do vary in the village some bargaining is to be expected. But be respectful; there is a staggering amount of skill and time required to produce hand-made weavings and rugs. Expect to pay more for high-quality natural-dyed items as opposed to rugs produced with synthetic dyes and factory-made wool.
Where to Purchase Rugs in Teotitlán del Valle
Many shops line Av Juárez, the main road leading into the village. Shoppers can spend days looking at the multitude of rugs, tablecloths, scarves, purses, pillow cases and other handcrafted items. Mercado de Artesanías is the first market one sees when entering the village, this is a good first stop to look around and get an idea on prices before starting the shopping excursion in the village.
One reputable place to shop is the women’s cooperative Vida Nueva; a small woman-owned workshop that sells and produces handmade items and rugs. The cooperative provides a sustainable business and trade for single and widowed women in the village. Shoppers can feel good that their consumer dollars will help support not only the women of the cooperative but also the various community projects Vida Nueva is involved in. The items and rugs sold at the cooperative are hand-made with wool that is hand-carded and spun and naturally dyed. The cooperative is located off the Zocalo on Centenario 1.
Start the day off with a visit to the village market located in the main square. Open daily from 8:30am to 10:30am, this small but lively market sells a little of everything from produce, bread, meats, freshly-made cheese, clothing, and even jewelry. The market is a good place to meet local weavers and artists. Talking to local weavers and families is the best way to learn about rugs and woven items. Don’t be surprised to be invited to a weaving demonstration at someone’s home or workshop. This is perfectly safe and a common practice in Teotitlán.
Local Rug Weavers of Teotitlán del Valle
For a more personal interaction with an artist visit the Chavez Santiago family workshop. Federico Chavez Sosa, his wife Dolores Santiago Arrellanas and their family have a reputation for selling and producing high-quality handcrafted rugs and other items. Having perfected the ancient art of natural dyeing, you will find they offer a wide array of products in beautiful natural colors. The family offers informative weaving and dying demonstrations in their workshop. Afterwards visit the rug room to view and purchase their beautiful rugs in every size, shape, color and design.
Their son and daughter, Eric Chavez Santiago, director of education at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca (Textile Museum of Oaxaca) and Janet of the Galleria Fe y Lola in Oaxaca have carved out a niche in the weaving world as well. Eric and Janet have taught at NC State University, University of California at Santa Cruz, Purdue University and the Museum of Quilts and Textiles in San Jose, California. Their work has been exhibited in New York, San Francisco, Chicago, Indianapolis, Chapel Hill, and Madison.
A private demonstration from this family of experts is a wonderful opportunity to learn more about the craft of weaving and dyeing. The family workshop is located in Teotitlan del Valle at #55 Av. Francisco I. Madero. To schedule a visit to the Chavez Santiago workshop contact Janet Chavez Santiago at jazoula.10@gmail.com or in Oaxaca call (951) 5524-4078.
Tours to Teotitlán del Valle, Mexico
The village is located about 45 minutes from Oaxaca and is easily accessible by taxi, bus or tour. It is approximately $45 to take a taxi from Oaxaca to Teotitlán. A more affordable option is a bus or a collective taxi. Buses depart in every hour until 7:00pm from the Baseball Stadium in Oaxaca. Another option is to look for a collectivo, this is a shared taxi with a Teotitlán sign in the windshield.
To get the most out of your visit consider a personal tour with an expert. Norma Hawthorne of Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC offers specialized workshops and tours to Teotitlán. Her workshops cover a variety of topics such as weaving and natural dyeing, creative writing (memoir, poetry, fiction, travel, and food), cooking classes, documentary film making, photography, and painting. Norma has many exciting but affordable trips offered for 2011!
In March 2011, Norma is offering a six-day woman's writing retreat to Teotitlán along with writer Robin Greene and yoga instructor Beth Miller. Participants will learn and practice a variety of writing genres including memoir writing, journaling, and poetry, as well as learn the art of self-renewal during daily yoga classes, meditation sessions, and shiatsu massage. Of course there will be plenty of time available for shopping and weaving demonstrations.
A visit to Teotitlán is not only a must for weaving enthusiasts but for anyone interested in culture and art! Visitors will find this small village to be filled with friendly informative artisans, a vast selection of woven goods, and a thriving cultural heritage.
Christine Zenino - Christine Zenino is a travel writer and photographer specializing in urban destinations and adventure travel.
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